I Want Candy

The Medieval village of Anghiari clings to the side of a hill at the southern edge of Tuscany. As with most towns of any size in Italy, it hosts a weekly market. Here the local farmers come to sell fruit and vegetables from tables they set up in the piazza; meat, cheese, and fish vendors ease their vans through the serpentine lanes. The townspeople also browse through stands of kitchenware, clothes, linens (the Mussolini dishrags are particularly impressive), shoes, cellphone covers, antiques, and wine. You can pick out live chickens, rabbits, and ducks for your Sunday dinner.

And if you're lucky, the candy van, with its complicated unfolding canopy, will make an appearance.